In
the early 1990s, I left recession-mired Britain for a job on a magazine
in Tokyo. I had expected a shimmering high-tech metropolis, but (like
most Japanese) ended up living in a cramped apartment so technically
primitive that whenever I used my computer, stereo and toaster
simultaneously, the antique fuse box exploded — along with many myths
about futuristic Japan. Back then, e-mail was rarer than blowfish
sushi.
Broadband was an undreamt dream. How did I ever survive
expatriate life in those dark predigital days? Today, I am a freelance
journalist based in Bangkok, where, as in the UK, broadband’s
popularity has passed the “tipping point”, with high-speed connections
now cheaper than dial-up. Not only is this broadband revolution
transforming how, and how often, expats like me keep in touch with the
old country, it is making it feasible for connected global villagers to
work from anywhere on the planet — at least in theory.
The Office for National Statistics estimates that 191,000
Britons upped sticks and left the UK during 2003, the most ever
recorded. One friend living the digital dream is John Stanmeyer, a war
photographer and co-founder of the VII Photo agency. Tired of his
long-time home in congested Hong Kong, he moved his family to a
three-bedroom villa set amid electric-green rice fields on the
Indonesian island of Bali. Stanmeyer is self-employed, and his business
depends on a 200ft antenna in the garden, which picks up high-speed
internet with its own satellite dish from a Balinese company.
“Without the internet connection, it would be like living in
an Afghan desert,” says Stanmeyer, who has lived in a few. The system
is neither cheap nor foolproof. A tropical storm knocked out the
antenna for two hours, plunging him back into the unwired world
inhabited by many of his rice-farming neighbours. Yet his message
remains upbeat: “You can specialise and do your work well wherever you
are. That is, as long as you have a solid client base.”
There’s the techno-rub. You can be self-employed and wired,
but your clients still want “face time” at some point, an expectation
it may take a generational shift to eradicate. Happily for everyone
staring out of their workplace window at grey British skies, I can
report that stories of thousands of bronzed teleworkers communicating
with UK-based companies from the fabled beaches of Southeast Asia are
exaggerated.
We all know there is a huge gap between what technology
companies claim their products can do — transform our dull lives,
usually — and how consumers use them. Remember the headline “Bantu
tribesman uses IBM global-uplink network modem to crush nut”, in the
satirical online newspaper The Onion? I think of that tribesman every
time I turn on my trusty Palm personal organiser. I use it mostly to
store addresses and play games of career-stunting addictiveness.
I toyed with downloading a Thai-English dictionary, but then
another Palm-owner beamed me a copy of the retro classic game Asteroids
— a case of “Journalist uses miniature handheld computer to crack
rocks”.
As a global villager bound by inexor-able laws of convergence,
I should by now own a Treo or BlackBerry, or some such supergizmo
combining a PDA, a digital camera and a mobile phone. I don’t, because
these devices are (a) still expensive and fragile, at least compared
with my cheap-as-chips and virtually indestructible Nokia, and (b) not
well geared to developing countries and their often arcane pricing
rules on data downloads.
Like many expats, however, I benefit from the loose laws of my
adopted country. If file-sharing music isn’t yet as popular in Asia as
in the West, it is partly because bootleg CDs are criminally cheap — £1
an album — and widely available. The same goes for pirated software,
which, in Bangkok, even official dealers of big-name brands usually
load onto computers at no cost. Also legal out here is what Apple terms
“the coolest iPod accessory in the world”, now the de rigueur device
for inveterate globe-trotters. The iTrip clips onto an iPod and
transmits songs to a nearby FM radio. The BBC website observed that
this is a bit like “setting up your own pirate radio station”. How cool
is that? Yet the iTrip is banned in Britain under the Jurassic-sounding
Wireless Telegraphy Act of 1949.
Fortunately, it is legal almost everywhere else. During
gruelling road trips across China, my mate Stuart was driven to
distraction by Cantonese pop blaring from the radio. Last time, with an
iTrip, he and his iPod-owning companions took turns playing their
favourite tunes instead. “It’s a life-saver on long, hard journeys,”
Stuart asserts.
The technology that has become indispensable to expats is
high-speed internet access. A decade ago, my top-five list of what I
missed most about Britain was as follows: family, friends, Radio 4,
Marmite and real newspapers. Today, as part of my online banquet, I
feast on several British newspapers, mostly for arts, books and
football coverage, while listening to Radio 4 on the web. This is my
daily dose of British culture, my digital Marmite.
With broadband, I can watch video clips and get dangerously
lost within the BBC’s galactic website, particularly the comedy section
— a social life belt on visits to Britain, where people always talk
about great telly you have missed. Visiting friends and family on trips
home is also made easier by being able to buy cheap, hassle-free
e-tickets for budget airlines such as EasyJet and Ryanair. To keep up
with Europe’s non-Britney music scene, I listen to an alternative
Austrian station called FM4 (fm4.orf.at), which my Swiss girlfriend,
Natalie, first played to me on her car radio back home. I often browse
www.radio-locator.com for similar gems. Several times a day, I stifle
the urge to check my own website, www.andrewmarshall.com.
Even with so much choice online, I have British friends who
still long for the analogue thunk of the latest Granta magazine
arriving in their postbox, just as I relish the tactile pleasure of
undressing my weekly copy of The New Yorker from its plastic wrapping.
Bookshops have become the dinosaurs of the digital age: you can count
on one hand the number of decent English-language bookstores in Asia,
perhaps even on one finger. Ordering books online is now second nature,
so vital for my sanity that pre-Amazon times seem as distant as a
childhood nightmare.
And what did I do before internet banking? Oh, yes, I spent
pharaonic sums on international calls to my bank, listening to holding
music. You think dealing with your local high-street branch is irksome?
Multiply that irk by 6,000 miles.
I don’t dare calculate what proportion of my early earnings
was swallowed by phoning Britain. It is an unshakable fact of expat
life: loved ones never call you as much as you call them. After all,
they reason, it was you who left. This is why few innovations have been
more life-enhancing than Skype, easy-to-install internet telephony
software that enables me to make cheap calls to land lines worldwide,
as well as free calls to other Skype users.
Yes, free. If Skype has a drawback, it is this: you must first
shake off the deeply ingrained anxiety that you are running up a truly
unpayable bill. My first Skype session was with an American friend in
Paris. “So,” I quizzed him, “this is free, right? Like, completely
free? Free free? As in not costing anything? Complimentary? Gratis?” My
mother, who lives near Edinburgh, installed Skype on her com-puter. She
was impressed too. “Free? You mean, completely free?” she began, with
the same giddy interrogation that betrays a first-time Skyper.
My mum, a tech-savvy 58-year-old, equipped her house with
wireless broadband to help us keep in touch cheaply. My siblings are
similarly connected: my Peruvian sister-in-law, Dora, revisits her home
with a Cuzco-based periódico virtual. My father, who has remarried,
doesn’t even have a computer at home. Result: we don’t communicate as
much.
With the advent of cheap broadband, digital photography has
also come of age. After my iBook, a Canon Ixus 400 camera is my most
used gadget — and swifter internet connections have finally made
photo-sharing fun rather than infuriating. Sometimes I post images on
the web through my Mac account and send people the link. An English
friend in Bangkok takes snaps of her children with her phone, uses
wireless Bluetooth technology to transfer the images to her computer,
then transmits them across two continents to doting grandparents.
So, for the next 191,000 Brits considering a long, hard
journey of their own, here is some advice: you can read online
newspapers until your eyeballs dry up, you can Skype until you are
hoarse, but it is never enough. The distance remains. Recently, a
birthday package arrived from my sister, Jo. In an endearing but doomed
attempt to disguise its contents, she had written “Shirt” on the
customs sticker. But the package was round and hard, and had a shape I
recognised instantly: digital Marmite is great, but nothing tastes like
the real thing.
EXPAT ESSENTIALS
MUST HAVE GADGETS
A hard-wearing Apple iBook laptop
A dinky Canon Ixus 400 camera
A Palm personal organiser for storing addresses and games
A Griffin iTrip, which tunes an iPod into an FM radio, and is “a life-saver on long, hard journeys”
KEEPING IN TOUCH
www.skype.com Net telephony software for free calls — yes, free
www.wrx.zen.co.uk 800 British papers, for arts, books and football
www.radio-locator.com A great portal for internet stations; fm4. orf.at For rock via Austria; www.bbc.co.uk For a quick fix of Radio 4
www.rbsint.com Online finances at the Royal Bank of Scotland
GETTING AROUND
EasyJet and Ryanair: e-tickets for cheap connecting flights when visiting home