The grown-up's guide to backpacking Europe

By Rod O'Connor
Special to the Tribune

April 17, 2005

SALZBURG, Austria -- Supposedly Charlemagne dined in this room. Like so much we'd seen and experienced during our more than two months in Europe, this seemed unbelievable. But even more unbelievable was the fact that the three couples—one Irish, one British, one Australian—dining with us at Europe's oldest restaurant were envious of an American couple's travel schedule.

It was hard for these folks to comprehend Americans bold enough to take a trip such as ours: eight countries—and 22 cities—over nine weeks. I was amazed the couple from London had never been to Vienna. Or Berlin. Or even Paris. And we had, all in the past month.

"So you both quit your jobs; that's quite admirable," the friendly Australian woman said.

"And not very American," her husband chimed in.

The eight of us had just enjoyed the first of three sets of what I called "Mozart's greatest hits" at a Mozart Dinner Concert in the Baroque hall of Salzburg's St. Peter Stiftskeller, a 1,200-year-old formal restaurant tucked away in the courtyard of a Benedictine abbey.

My girlfriend, Jennifer, and I explained that with only two weeks' vacation, quitting was the only way we could embark on a longer trip. A sabbatical or unpaid leave may have been possible, but we decided to cash in and see what would happen next.

"You're joking—two weeks' vacation?" the Protestant minister from Belfast said. "We start out with four weeks straight away."

Every year, thousands of college kids and young adults backpack Europe, whether it's via study-abroad programs or a post-graduation sowing of the oats. But what about those of us who never took advantage of youthful opportunities? Does that mean our chance to bop around Europe has gone the way of spring break high jinks and all-night fraternity parties—experiences reserved only for the young (we're in our mid-30s), never to return?

For most of us, extended travel seems a fool's wish once we enter the working world. But the good news is you don't have to wait until retirement or your first million for an extended trip to Europe—and you don't need to sacrifice your career or deplete your life savings doing it.

Taking the time. First things first: Not everyone is comfortable quitting a job to travel. It's scary, to be sure. If you're not the gambling type, ask about your company's policy on sabbaticals; most companies would rather provide time off without pay than lose a quality employee. For those really serious about dropping out, read "The Grown-Up's Guide to Running Away From Home" by Rosanne Knorr (Ten Speed Press; $11.95).

Planning your trip. When planning a backpacking trip to Europe, you can craft a detailed itinerary yourself or hire a professional to do it for you—or just wing it. Having neither the time to plan nor the money for a travel agent, we chose the last.

We began in Lisbon and worked our way east through Spain, France, Germany, the Netherlands and the Czech Republic before winding back through Austria and Italy, ending in Rome. Our timeline allowed two to four days in most cities, with longer stays in cultural capitals like Berlin and Paris. But this is Europe, so itineraries are limitless. Make a list of places you've always wanted to see, or old favorites you want to see again, and connect the dots.

Set a budget and stick to it (sort of). A month or two's worth of hotels, meals and activities certainly adds up, especially if you're newly unemployed, so determine a best- and worst-case scenario based on what you can afford. Outside of big-ticket items (roughly $1,200 total for airfare and $1,400 for our two-person Eurail pass) we settled on $150 per day to cover our lodging (budget hotels or bed-and-breakfasts but absolutely no youth hostels), meals, site admissions (all the must-sees, some curiosities) and other incidentals. But don't be afraid to modify your budget on a day-to-day basis. Splurge on a nice dinner one night, but then grab sandwiches the next. And it's not the end of the world if you go over your per diem to get into the Colosseum or to see a bullfight. That's why you're there, right?

Off-season travel offers hidden benefits. Consider Europe in early spring or late fall. Rooms are cheaper, the weather is still mild in many areas, and there's more opportunity to interact with locals and experience the "real" Europe. Plus, the crowds are smaller at Europe's most popular sights. Traveling in November and December, we were free to linger in the Sistine Chapel in Rome, walk right up to the "Mona Lisa" at the Louvre in Paris and gawk at El Grecos in Madrid's Prado. Some tour groups became de facto private tours, just the guide and us, for substantially less than such personal service usually commands.

Choose your guidebooks wisely. On an extended backpacking trip you really lean on your guidebooks. They become like a know-it-all travel companion—mostly helpful, sometimes annoying, but in the end you're glad they were there. We chose two: "Rick Steves' Best of Europe" (great for quality budget restaurants and historical detail), which covered 75 percent of our itinerary, and "Let's Go: Europe," which filled in the gaps, and provided vital, quick-hit transportation and tourist information. Younger backpackers may want to go with the Rough Guide series and its plentiful bar and club recommendations, while those with fewer budget restrictions should consider "Fodor's Europe," featuring more listings on high-end lodging and dining.

Book rooms on the go. While most adult travelers stick to some sort of itinerary, unexpected twists and turns are part of the youthful allure. But when booking rooms on the go, you soon find that budget hotel quality varies wildly. After a few bad experiences, we discovered Venere.com (sort of a European version of hotels.com), which includes interior and exterior photos, and also maps to confirm your location is indeed "steps away from the City Center." The major U.S. travel Web sites like Expedia.com and Orbitz.com also provide plenty of hotel listings for major European destinations. The only caveat: Some sites charge a penalty for cancellations.

Eat and drink like a local. Despite the rapidly dropping dollar, inexpensive meals kept us from tapping our 401(k)s. You can't go wrong, both in terms of price and quality, when you eat and drink like a local. In Prague, that means two liters of fresh Pilsner Urquell and a dinner of pork with dumplings for under $10. And $20 three-course meals, with more-than-respectable house red wine, in Parisian cafes. And neighborhood trattorias everywhere in Italy, where the check often brings disbelief. Was it possible our four-course meal, plus unlimited wine, cost less than $50 for two? Did we get the wrong bill? Was this some kind of mistake?

Use your Eurail pass efficiently. It can be a grind, but the train is still the best way to travel Europe when you're hitting multiple cities—no matter your age. (For fewer destinations, or a tighter timeline, Europe's super-value airlines such as Ireland's Ryan- air may be a better option.) A Eurailpass Flexi provides 10 travel days over two months. The key is to utilize your Eurail travel days on longer trips, and buy additional one-way tickets for shorter rides as needed. Plus, most Eurail pass holders get First-Class seats on every train. But be sure to consult your schedule for trains that suggest or require an advance reservation (oftentimes with an additional cost). More information: www.eurail.com or www .raileurope.com.

Pack the bare minimum. When constantly on the move, you need to pack light. It's not only easier to lug around your belongings; there's also less to wash at the laundromat or, in our case, the hotel sink. Bring mostly dark colors (they won't show dirt as easily), including one nice ensemble for when the occasion arises, and pack a small bottle of Febreze for in-between washings. Regarding luggage: One durable backpack or rolling duffel plus one day-bag each is the maximum.

Don't try to do too much. Overnight trains don't allow for much sleep, and running constantly from hotel to hotel and city to city can take its toll. Blow off breakfast and sleep in once in a while. Save some sights for a return visit. And if you get sick, pop into one of Europe's handy pharmacies for prescription-grade medication.

Returning home. We spent our final week in Rome just before Christmas, every piazza lit up for the holidays. It wasn't until our last night, crossing the Tiber River from the Trastevere neighborhood, that it finally hit us we had to return home. For nine weeks we tried not to complain about the small hotel rooms, the crowded trains, the closed museums and the confusing street signs. We had seized our second chance at the trip we'd always dreamed of, and there's no doubt we appreciated it far more as grown-ups than we would have as college kids.

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